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A Love Affair with the City of Light

Bonjour!  After a 3 ½ hour journey filled with anticipation, we have finally arrived in the city of romance, the capital of art and the epitome of fashion.  Bienvenue à Paris!  High ceilings and enormous iron arches welcomed us, as we stepped off the train from the Gare Du Nord station, a major railway hub that connects Paris to other parts of Europe.  It’s grandeur can be quite overwhelming, but its architectural marvel is undeniably impressive.  Outside, we were greeted by its iconic façade, renaissance style buildings and charming Parisian cafes with their inviting outdoor seating.  Instantly we were wrapped by the distinctive ambience that is unmistakably Paris.

 


Cabs line up in queue, eager to get the attention of visitors seeking for transportation.  While it may be tempting to hop in immediately to get into your hotel, it is extremely important to exercise caution as scammers are known to exploit opportunities like this.  Only engage with drivers whose cars have the lighted “taxi” sign, signifying their official status and compliance to regulations.  Dealing with unlicensed drivers may result in unforeseen risks and elevated rates.  Two drivers quoted EUR30 and EUR40  for a ride to our hotel.  Fortunately we decided to  speak to a third driver who was compassionate enough to tell us that our hotel is actually just a few steps away and that we can easily walk our way through it.  This is where advanced planning and research may come handy.  It can save you from unnecessary expenses and troubles.

 

Paris may carry  a reputation for glamour and luxury, but sadly, just like some parts of the the US, a challenge it has yet to successfully address and continue to face is homelessness.  The presence of numerous roofless individuals is visibly evident in the vicinity of the terminal.  Makeshift shelters, often consisting of cardboard boxes and improvised tents, line the pavements, presenting a very unpleasant and alarming scene, particularly for tourists like us.


A few steps later and we were in our hotel.  We picked the Hotel Hor Europe for our five-night stay because of its excellent ratings at Tripadvisor and  its convenient location.  Not only is it a stone’s throw away from two main rail stations, Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est, but it is also surrounded by a diverse selection of dining choices and is in close proximity to most major attractions.  It’s  a boutique hotel with very compact rooms, nothing fancy, but it served its purpose.  Their complimentary coffee bar makes the most divine mochaccino we’ve ever savoured.



We spent our first afternoon exploring the breathtaking Sacré-Cœur Basilica, a very prominent landmark situated on top of a picturesque hill at the historic Montmartre.  While we had to scale 300 steps to reach the pristine white domes, the unparalleled view that welcomed us at the top, along with the magical sense of tranquility within the church's interior, was enough reward for our efforts.  Visitors typically sit and relax along the steps while indulging in an awe-inspiring panoramic view of the cityscape.  Inside the Basilica, you’ll see massive walls and beams designed  in Roman-Byzantine style, an intricately constructed sanctuary, a colossal ceiling crafted from mosaic glass, beautifully stained glass windows and rows of flickering candles in various colors, designs and shapes. 

 


We concluded our first day with a tranquil boat cruise along the Seine River. This is similar to a canal cruise in Amsterdam that loops around the city and passes by famous landmarks and structures.  The night air was chilly, and we were wrapped in shivers as we sit and stare at the upper deck, but the mesmerizing scenery we witnessed instantly made us forget about the cold.  To see the Eiffel Tower up close, illuminated and towering majestically, along with the other symbolic Parisian landmarks, evoked an indescribable sense of surreal emotion.

 


Day 2 was especially dedicated to visiting one of the worlds most coveted landmark, a structural masterpiece that has gracefully stood for 137 years, captivating the hearts of countless romantics and inspiring every artist with its ageless brilliance.  The Eiffel Tower, named after its creator, Gustave Eiffel was originally built to be one of the main attractions of the 1889 Paris World Fair, to commemorate the centennial year of the French Revolution.  The structure was meant to be temporary and was initially hated, criticized and even protested upon.  Yet, it has since remained standing, prouder and stronger, evolving into what is today a very powerful symbol of Paris.  At present, the Eiffel Tower is probably the world’s most visited and most sought-after attraction, welcoming an average of 6,000,000 guests each year.  Three levels of the tower is open to visitors for a fee and is accessible either by lift or by foot.  You have to secure your tickets as early as you can as they sell out really quickly.  Unfortunately only stair access tickets were available for our date, which meant climbing 674 daunting steps to reach the 2nd level observation deck. Hence, the eye-popping view was more than enough motivation, with a good energizing work out as an added bonus.

 


After lavishing in the spectacular vistas and taking a ton of photos, we headed on to look for something to appease our  now growling bellies.  We found a nice, touristy restaurant that served mostly Italian dishes… not the best but not the worst either… did the job, so we were good.  


Our next stop was at the luxurious Galleries Lafayette Haussmann, a shopping complex famously known for its fabulous and stunning interior and a rooftop with sweeping views. Keep in mind that there are 3 Galleries Lafayette locations in Paris, so make sure you mention Haussmann when looking for directions.   


The lavish Christmas-themed decorations were truly a feast for the eyes.  Located on the mall’s 3rd floor is a breathtaking glass walkway suspended in midair, providing  a unique photo op perspective.  Visitors line up for a 5 minute opportunity to take photos and indulge in the fascinating experience.  We were fortunate to get accommodated without a reservation, but it is highly recommended to get a guaranteed spot. 


The rooftop welcomes everyone free of charge and requires no purchase.  A huge Paris Je T'aime sculpture, along with an equally breathtaking panorama, albeit from a different angle and vantage view, await photo buffs.  A visit to GLH is definitely a must when exploring Paris.



As day 3 was reserved for a full-day trip to Brussels,  a noteworthy adventure that deserved its own separate blog, so I’m diving into day 4.  The earlier part of the day was spent exploring the palace and the expansive grounds of Chateau de Versailles. A journey to this famous castle provides, not just a glimpse of French extravagance, but also allows one to immerse and transport back in time, into an era of regal splendor and magnificence. Every corner and every detail tells a story of wealth, privilege and influence, a living testament to the powerful and ostentatious lives of the monarchs who once called this palace their home.  The “Gardens” covers about 800 hectares of meticulously manicured lawns,  surrounded by sculptured fountains, mythological statues and reflecting pools.  The immensity is unbelievable and may seem boundless, stretching far and wide, as far as the eye can see.

 


The second half of day 4 included a quick stop at Musee D’Orsay, another reputable museum celebrated for its extensive collection of classic art masterpieces from the 19th and 20th century, featuring works by Claude Monet and Vincent Van Gogh, among others.  The museum is housed at a former railway terminal, situated alongside the Seine River.  The expansive hall flaunts a high glass ceiling.  A huge intricately designed clock prominently hung at the entrance, just beneath the loft. 


From Musee D’Orsay, we made our way to the Notre Dame Cathedral, a historic landmark that is also  located along the Seine River.  Sadly, we could only admire the cathedral from the exterior as renovations were still ongoing following the 2019 devastating fire that caused a significant damage to its structure.  A temporary multi-tiered platform has been constructed at the church’s front exterior where visitors can sit, view and take photos.

 


With one full day left and 2 important items remaining in our itinerary, we  embarked on an early trip to the train station with the Musee du Louvre as our first stop.  Our goal was to appreciate and capture photos of the façade’s magnificent architecture and the surrounding exterior before we start our indoor journey, so we made sure we had enough time to accomplish this and be done in time for when the doors open at 9:00 am.  The lines can get quite lengthy so it’s always advisable to queue up early.  The glass pyramids, the biggest serving as the main entryway to the museum, are even more captivating in real life with their flawless symmetry and striking appearance.  They also function as skylights that dramatically illuminate the interior spaces.  Wandering along the cobblestone grounds and staring into the surrounding neoclassical buildings evoke a dreamlike feeling of stepping into a scene from a medieval movie. 

 


Inside the museum, we see a huge labyrinth of invaluable art pieces created by different famous and exceptionally gifted artists.  We eagerly headed to the Denon wing to finally meet the most celebrated and most precious masterpiece of all time, up close and in real life.  Due to previous theft and vandalism attempts, the Mona Lisa is displayed in a bulletproof, climate-controlled glass case at a barricaded gallery, where visitors can view from a distance.  Expect this part of the museum to be the busiest any time of the day. 


The Louvre is a gigantic and inspirational exhibition of creative brilliance, housing an impressive collection of 35,000 artworks.  It is practically impossible to explore the whole museum in one visit, so we made sure to prioritize checking on the most remarkable and noteworthy pieces like the Mona Lisa, the Raft of Medusa, The Coronation of Napoleon and The Wedding at Cana, the last being the largest painting in the Louvre, measuring over 6 meters high and almost 10 meters wide. 


A side note worth considering is checking out Comptoir du Louvre - Paul, a lovely cafe located below the pyramid serving  delicious gourmet sandwiches and a good variety of mouth-watering desserts.

 


After a rejuvenating break and a delightful meal, we leisurely stroll towards what is often hailed as the most beautiful avenue on the globe, the Champs Elysees.  This upscale location situated in the heart of Paris features rows of luxury boutiques from the most prestigious brands, flagship designer stores and an enticing selection of dining establishments, along a stretch of nearly 2 kilometers long. Incidentally, the French luxury brand Louis Vuitton has chosen to open its very first hotel in this location.  The hotel, rumored to open doors in 2026, will stand next to the brand’s largest shop and will feature a façade replicating its famous monogram trunk.



Standing proudly at the western end of Champs Elysees Avenue, at the center of Place Charles de Gaulle is Arc de Triomphe, an iconic monument and a symbol of France's rich history and national pride. It was commissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1806 to honor the victories of the French armies. Engraved on its walls are the list of battles fought and names of the generals and soldiers who fought these battles.  It has an observation deck that would require climbing 284 steps to indulge in another panoramic perspective of  Paris, highlighting a dazzling top view of Champs Elysees with a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower.  Going after sunset will provide  a more dramatic and enchanting ambience. 

 


We capped off our day and memorialized Thanksgiving, which coincidentally happened to fall on the same date, with a fancy dinner at a charming French restaurant along Champs Elysees.


Since our flight back was not until 6:55 pm the following day and our hotel was just a few minute bus ride from Montmartre, we took  the chance in the early morning to do a quick survey of the area and capture photos of famous landmarks like Moulin Rouge and the  Je T’aime wall. 



All things considered and given the unpredictable nature of the season, our trip to Paris went fairly well, with very minor hiccups.  We were fortunate to experience decent weather, with only occasional brief drizzles during our stay.  It may undoubtedly be the most physically demanding trip we’ve ever embarked on, given the unwavering climbing and extensive walking, yet in retrospect, every sore muscle and depleting agony of exhaustion was justified by the rich experiences and memories we gained along the way.  Our fleeting love affair with the city of light may have come to an end, but the romance we've shared will continue to illuminate our hearts and possibly inspire a new chapter in the future.  Au revoir Paris!





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